In 2013, the tragic Rana Plaza factory collapse uncovered the ugly realities of fast fashion, killing over 1,100 garment workers and shaking the industry to its core. But a decade on, retailers like Shein, H&M, and Zara are still everywhere, tempting consumers with trendy, affordable clothing. Behind the cheap prices is a system of exploitative working conditions and environmental destruction. While fast fashion democratizes fashion, it does so at the cost of morality—one we can no longer afford to ignore.
For example, in Bangladesh, Cambodia, and China, factory workers toil in exploitative conditions, paid poverty wages to risk their lives in dangerous factories. Child labor and forced labor remain alarmingly common, but too many brands offload responsibility by subcontracting manufacture to subcontractors, creating layers of credible deniability. Businesses like Shein have been caught for using clothes supplied by child labor, yet as a company they continue to succeed. The cost of sustainability is also staggering—fast fashion is the second-largest user of water in the world, with toxic dyes polluting rivers and synthetic fibers shedding minuscule microplastics into oceans. Meanwhile, overproduction floods the market with cheap clothes, most of which ends up directly in landfills after a few wears. Clothing donations often end up incinerated and in landfills— making our brief fashion trends even more damaging to the environment.
Adding fuel to the fire, social media and influencer marketing have spawned a culture of overconsumption, where fashion spins on a whirring fast cycle: the epitome of hypocrisy. Fast-fashion giants like Shein churn out thousands of brand-new pieces per day, reminding consumers to buy more and waste faster. And although ethical and sustainable fashion exists, it is often priced higher than the average middle or low-income buyer can afford. Fast fashion is therefore seen as the viable option because customers can buy larger quantities while sacrificing quality. Shein may be able to give you that dopamine rush of adding cheap items to your cart, but it’s important to recognize the consequences that come at the expense of your massive shopping haul. Secondhand shopping would be a solution, but if secondhand rates continue to inflate with demand, it is also no longer available for those most in need, resulting in turning to cheaper and more environmentally unfriendly alternatives. However, it still is better than whatever clothes that are being produced by these companies. Oftentimes, these second-hand clothes will be high quality and can be for all. At a thrift shop, there can be clothes for anyone’s style!
Even so-called “sustainable” initiatives by large corporations are nothing more than publicity stunts. H&M’s green lines, for instance, create the illusion of change while the corporation continues to engage in destructive production practices. Greenwashing—when companies make claims of sustainability without real accountability—is widespread, and without strict regulations, corporations have the liberty to prioritize profits over people and the planet. It is important to think about where clothes come from and where they will go once we stop wearing them.
So, where do we go from here? As consumers, we can be more mindful in our choices, choosing quality over quantity where we can and avoiding the temptation to spend on short-lived trends. These fast-fashion brands are usually cheaper for a reason. They have terrible ethical practices, but also the quality of clothes will be much worse. Being able to find high-quality clothes that can last longer will be better for the environment and just last you in general. But meaningful change needs to happen at a systemic level. Governments need to intervene to impose stricter labor and sustainability standards, making ethical fashion not a luxury for the elite, but a right for all. A world in which fashion is accessible and sustainable shouldn’t be a dream—it should be the norm.